This year, major watchmakers continue the current of reviving landmark retro models for contemporary collectors. The trend of paying tribute to glorious history was particularly evident at the 100th Baselworld in 2017.
Paying homage to Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC diving watch established in 1953, the Blancpain 2017 edition is fitted with the in-house automatic winding calibre 1151 offering a four-day power reserve. Inside the 40 mm case is the silicon balance-spring featuring lightness, more shock-resistant, and enhanced timekeeping precision. The black dial features indexes in Super-LumiNova® and a humidity indicator recalling the designs of the 1950s edition. Water resistant to 300 meters, the watch is limited to 500 pieces and comes with a NATO, sailcloth strap or steel bracelet.
The year of 2017 marks the independence of Grand Seiko from Seiko. To celebrate the historical moment, Grand Seiko has reproduced its first watch from 1960 which carried its logo right at the twelve o’clock position. The new edition is available in platinum, 18-karat yellow gold and steel. The case is virtually identical to the original except for the larger 38 mm case. The daual-curved sapphire crystal is also loyal to the origins. All three versions incorporate the 9S64 manual winding calibre, with the platinum version adjusted to higher level of precision of -1 to +5 seconds per day.
The new Intra-Matic 68 automatic chronograph introduced by Hamilton this year is inspired by its Chronograph B watch launched in 1968. The dial stays true to the reverse panda face of the origins with two white subdials lying against a black background. Inside the bigger-than-its-predecessor 42 mm stainless steel case is the automatic H-31 movement and 60-hour power reserve. Super-LumiNova® coating on the hour and minute hands ensures higher legibility. It is produced in a limited 1,968-piece edition.
To commemorate the 60th anniversary of its first Flagship collection launched in 1957, Longines has introduced the Flagship Heritage edition in steel, 18-karat rose and yellow gold limited to 1,957, 60 and 60 pieces respectively. All three models house an L609 mechanical calibre in the 38.5 mm case. The brushy silver dial is adorned with eight indexes and four Arabic numerals. Identical with the original design, the back of the new watch bears a stamped caravel − the flagship. A brown leather strap comes on the collectable.
This is also a special year for Omega’s three mechanical timepieces released in 1957: Seamaster 300, Railmaster and Speedmaster. The Swiss watchmaker has introduced the 60th anniversary editions of each model which are cased in brushed and polished stainless steel and feature black ‘tropical’ dials. Each watch is limited to 3,557 pieces and delivered inside a presentation box inspired by the original 1957 packaging. The 2017 model of Seamaster 300 features a 39 mm case and is powered by Master Chronometer calibre 8806. The new Railmaster, powered by the Master Chronometer calibre 8806 in a 38 mm case, has a deepened vintage indexes to allow a stronger light from the Super-LumiNova® filling. The 2017 Speedmaster features the brand’s 1861 calibre in a 38.6 mm case. The new editions can be bought separately or as a trio.
Chronoris was the debut stop-second chronograph Oris launched in 1970. Featured the brand’s first in-house chronograph calibre and a bold orange central seconds hand, the watch had a 39 mm streamlined case that was trendsetting of the period. The 2017 new Chronoris Date retains the said features plus an inner rotating bezel’s timer function. It comes on a leather, rubber, NATO or stainless steel bracelet which is a thinner interpretation of Chronoris’s 1970 design with 15 links across. This year, Rado has relaunched its vintage Captain Cook watches from the 1960s. The new HyperChrome Captain Cook trio features oversized indexes, chunky arrow-shaped hands and a rotating bezel in high-tech ceramic and stainless steel or titanium combine. Two 37 mm models feature distinctive masculine and feminine look including a darker colour scheme with a brown vintage leather strap for the former, a white ceramic bezel, diamonds on the dial, and a fine-knit metal Milanese band for the latter. The 45 mm model offers a bigger impact for wearers. The case features a blue colour scheme and goes with a black or blue textile strap.
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