June 2021
Loupe designers-in-residence series
Contemporary and timeless, versatile and accessible, sterling silver jewellery has its own charisma and class level. With her love of modern art and architecture, Hong Kong jewellery designer Daisy Chan of Thinking Daisy Jewellery creates sculptural and bold silver jewellery characterised by organic forms and elegant simplicity with substance.
A graduate in fine arts (painting), Daisy Chan has a strong perceptual awareness of colours and shapes. The ‘Canvas’ necklaces from the Soul 925 collection, for instance, feature two pieces of paintings with contrasting emotions: a tranquil artwork in cold enamel and a disturbed depiction with heavy strokes. The handmade pieces are set in gold-plated sterling silver with coloured cubic zirconia. The precise arrangement of the line striding across the rectangular frames and the two little squares setting by the corners achieves a perfect visual balance.
What set her silver jewellery apart from others are the bold contours, substantial ambience and intricate craftsmanship. With architecture being the guiding light for her design inspiration, it is not surprised that Zaha Hadid, one of the most brilliant architects in modern time, has come as Daisy Chan’s muse.
The Muse ring set in sterling silver with enamel and the frosted-gold technique from Italy features fluid movement of lines and a unique blend of curves inspired by the architect. It has brought her the Muse Design Awards 2021 in the Unites States as the only winner from Hong Kong claiming the platinum position in the Fashion Design category covering jewellery, watches, runway collections, haute couture, eye-wears, etc.
Mother Nature is an unfailing concept generator for jewellery designers of all time. Daisy Chan reinterprets the fragility of leaves, the endurance of stones and the vitality of bees in her own way while reminding us to live in harmony with the environment. The ‘Leaf’ necklace from the Zero 999 collection serves as a perfect example of her sustainability pledge. “I pick fallen leaves from the countryside. They are painted with silver paste layer by layer, kilned and then polished all by hand. The silver leaves retain all delicate details including the veins and the torn parts. The piece prompts the message of honouring the elements of nature,” she said. Fallen but not forgotten.
Prior to launching her own label, Daisy Chan had served a local jeweller as an in-house designer for eight years. She dedicated her free time to creating her own silver jewellery which was sold at weekend markets. That was where she found genuine contentment in. The growing desire to be herself paved the way for the birth of Thinking Daisy Jewellery in mid-2018.
“My brand comes as an alternative to the mass-produced gem-set jewellery heavily available in the market. I aspire to offer people something more audacious with special focus on the texture of metals,” she said.
An ardent designer, Daisy Chan keeps sharpening her goldsmithing edge. Mesmerised by the exquisite Italian design and traditional craftsmanship, she dedicates the whole Italian Love collection to materialise her authentic love of Italian savoir faire. Besides the made-in-Italy ‘Bee’ series constructed by moving loops inspired by beehives, other lines in the collection are made by the designer with Italian techniques and imported parts.
The ‘Lucky’ pendants featuring openwork beads in silver, blue, rose gold and black colours, as an example, are exquisitely made that the flickering surface rivals pavé-set diamonds thanks to the intricate ancient Italian artisanal craftsmanship. The ‘Stone’ rings ingeniously depict the coarse-grained texture of rocks.
The infinite quest for technical advancement has steered her to Loupe's 7th Design Residency Programme. She said: “The six-month residency period started July last year was truly practical and informative. We are particularly inspired by the selfless devotion of the master craftsmen from Chow Tai Fook who have broadened our minds and opened our eyes. The programme has contributed tremendously to the inheritance and innovation of jewellery craftsmanship in Hong Kong.” “The initiative has fostered dynamic exchanges among participating designers from around the world,” she added.
A rising star in jewellery design, Daisy Chan reckons the extraordinary performance of local designers. “Jewellery designers in Hong Kong have won widespread acclaim for their creativity, workmanship and drawing skills, which is evident from the numerous awards earned from international contests. Aside from jewellery, we may draw new inspirations from other subjects such as architecture and art, while exploring more possibilities of using different materials,” she observed.
After engaging customers primarily online for almost two years, Daisy Chan started a brick-and-mortar location in February 2021. The studio in Lai Chi Kok serves as a showroom as well as a workshop. She believes that jewellery of substance needs to be touched, felt and tried on. “I made a start online. Although some items move pretty well on my digital channels, especially the Italian Love collection, many customers prefer to meet me in person at Loupe or weekend markets for a thorough look at the pieces they have a fancy for. The new studio comes in convenient for them,” she said. (Photo courtesy: Thinking Daisy Jewellery)
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