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  • L‘ETE EN VILLE EARRINES

Pearls to continue demand in Asia, but climate change threatens production

The pearl industry in the Philippines and in the world has been on the upward trend. Major pearl producer and exporter, Jewelmer Joaillerie notes that this trend proves that more people are gaining interest in the beauty and story behind pearls.

However, it is still largely the Asian market where pearls are most popular, as this region is also more familiar with the history of pearls, says deputy CEO Jacques Christophe Branellec. Most pearls have also been found in this region, making them a part of the Asian culture for centuries.

The Philippines is a majority stakeholder in the golden south sea pearl production, since a certain quality can only be found in the Philippines.

Asked about competition, Branellec says: “As we all produce different varieties of pearls, it would be difficult to classify anyone in the global industry as a direct competitor. We all have our own niches, Australia and Indonesia are known for the white and creamy colours, and Tahiti is known for the black pearl.”

He adds that the Philippine edge is that the country is able to produce the rarest and highly valued golden south sea pearl. These pearls are then exported to the global market, most of them then finding a home either in Asia or the Americas.

A class of its own

Pearls are in their own category parallel to precious stones, being one of the organic gems coming from a living organism, says Branellec. He cites that a Chinese dowry, for example, is comprised of five sets: ruby, emerald, sapphire, diamond and pearls.

Historically, there is this quest for the perfect round pearl, which is definitely very rare. But Branellec has seen a shift in consumer tastes.

“People are more open to different shapes now. There is a growth in the popularity of button, ovals, drop and semi-baroque (shapes). Since our business is a partnership with nature, we can culture and nurture our environment. But in the end, the shape, colour and size of the pearl is nature’s call,” he adds.

Pearls continue to be a rare product, and moving forward in the future, Branellec believes that it will continue to be rarer.

“Being a product of nature, there are very few technological advances that can directly affect the quality of the production. We are at the mercy of mother nature and at best we can try adapt to its constant changes,” he says.

Climate change a threat

While prospects are promising, Branellec is convinced that climate change is adversely affecting production. In fact, Jewelmer has experienced a downward trend in production volume in the last five years.

“We are primarily affected by extremes in temperatures, very strong typhoons, and most importantly the acidification of the ocean. Aside from working together with local communities to preserve the local marine environment and communicate its benefits, we are at the mercy of global changes that unfortunately we have little impact on. All we can do is to make noise about it. Hopefully, people will listen before (the damage) becomes irreversible,” he explains.

As part of this advocacy, the company, in partnership with Omega and GoodPlanet Foundation, released a Filipino version of the evocative film ‘Planet Ocean’ last year.

Directed by French multi-awarded director and environmentalist Yann Arthus-Bertrand, it is a 90-minute documentary that features intriguing visuals and tells of the dangers threatening the oceans today. The film aims to encourage people to imagine conservation as a responsibility shared by everyone on Earth.

About Jewelmer

Built on a strong advocacy for the nurture of nature, Jewelmer was founded in 1979 by Filipino entrepreneur Manuel Cojuangco and French pearl farmer Branellec in their pearl farm in Palawan, Southern Philippines - one of the few places in the world capable of sustaining the Pinctada maxima oyster that brings forth the rarest of all pearl varieties, the golden South Sea pearl.

Using a process that takes about five years and at least 323 individual steps to produce a single pearl, Jewelmer enterprise is unique in that it takes nothing from the environment, but rather adds to it.

Jewelmer Joaillerie’s heritage is cradled in the core of the classic French tradition of high jewellery and genuine Filipino sensibilities.

“This symbolises the essence of Jewelmer: the blue of the life-giving sea that gifts us with the golden South Sea pearl. It’s a square because it’s a balance between man and nature that makes this all possible”, says Branellec.

This living gem also serves as the inspiration of Jewelmer Joaillerie’s international team of designers as they create collections that are a harmonious combination of French tradition of haute joaillerie and genuine Filipino sensibilities.

“There is a saying, ‘when a woman wears a pearl, it is she who glows,’” said Branellec. “This is our vision for creating fine pearl jewellery for the past 35 years. Pearls possess a quiet elegance that do not detract from the wearer’s beauty, but in fact enhance it.”

 

By Ma Flordeliza C Leong

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