Jewellery should stand the test of time. By focusing on craftsmanship and details we pay respect to the art of jewellery making, said Chong Ho, creative director of Cheng & Cheung, Hong Kong. His insistence on endless innovation is exemplified in his Butterfly in City brooch/pendant (photo), which won the Craftsmanship and Technology Award in the 17th Hong Kong Jewellery Design Competition.
The closer we look at Butterfly in City, the more surprises we discover. When you press the ruby in the centre, the two pairs of wings will flutter. Ho said it is a great challenge to build a moving mechanism in such a tiny space while ensuring the same momentum of the four wings. The vibrant and translucent colour of the wings is created by the transparent fired enamelling technique that requires precise control of temperature which determines the colours. It is, therefore, not easy to produce even colours for all the four wings. If the temperature is too high the enamel will break, then everything has to be restarted all over again. In fact, it took the team multiple trials and errors to complete it. Another focus of the jewellery is the clear crystal wings that rest above the enamel. The surface of the crystals are carved in a wavy pattern to reflect light as flowing water does and the curvy shapes just fit the butterfly precisely. In terms of colour, they sought to maintain a balanced, natural contrast between the multi-coloured gemstones and the green wings.
The jewellery also embodies the desginer's perception of Hong Kong: the butterfly's pollination is analogous to citizens' exposure to different races and cultures that shape their minds while the half-moth, half-butterfly appearance is reminiscent of the uniqueness of the local culture. Ho said their goal in joining the competition is none but to inspire and encourage the local industry to keep creating even during difficult times because once you stop innovating, you will be easily outcompeted. He said that striving for the best is an arduous journey. “If you wish to score 100 points when others make 80, you have to work three or four times as hard,” he concluded.
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