Since inception in 1979, the Gemmological Association of Hong Kong Ltd (GAHK) is determined to enhance the understanding of the trade and the public in Hong Kong towards gemmology, formulate and refine gemstone identification standards, elevate local gemstone testing expertise and nurture industry talents. GAHK’s newly-elected chairman Eddie Fan shares with Hong Kong Jewellery his high-priority tasks on hand as well as the pressing issues in the industry.
How did GAHK contribute to the industry over the nearly 40 years of development?
The first thing is that we bring gemmological knowledge to the trade and consumers. Forty years ago the jewellery industry followed the master-apprentice system in which practitioners had profound knowledge in trading and manufacturing, but lacking fundamental gemmological understanding. Knowing that professional knowledge can help build confidence in gemstone purchasing as well as strengthening industry integrity, we encourage the trade and interested parties to take gemmological courses, issue professional gemmologist certificates, lift local gemstone testing standards, and nurture professional gemmologists for the industry and laboratories.
The jewellery industry in Hong Kong is famed for its integrity which can be strengthened by gemmological knowledge. Therefore, we actively promote education on gemmology, organise international academics exchange conferences and hold gemmological seminars in the hope to provide trade people with up-to-date information, let them introduce their products to customers in a professional manner. Many overseas jewellery shops have in-store gemmologists. I hope we can achieve the a-gemmologist-a-shop target in Hong Kong in future.
We also commit to formulate and refine gemstone testing standards to meet international requirements. In early 1980s, the jade market in Hong Kong saw the emergence of chemically-treated and resin-impregnated fei cui (or ‘Type B’ fei cui) which caused confusion to local laboratories. The ambiguous lab comments dealt a heavy blow to industry integrity and consumer confidence. In view of that, GAHK aspired to put forward fei cui testing standards. To learn from foreign expertise, we organised an international academics exchange conference on gemmology in 2001. We trained up senior gemmologists and sent representatives to Switzerland, France and Belgium to get an hands-on experience in gemstone testing which paved the way for the gradual development of our fei cui testing standards. In 2006, we finally launched the ‘Standard Methods for Testing Fei Cui (Jadeite Jade) for Hong Kong’ which provided the industry with a fei cui testing standard to follow.
Gemstone testing standards should move forward with times. Although jadeite jade stands as the most popular member of fei cui, we are obliged to protect the interest of those who engage in the other two members namely omphacite jade and kosmochlor jade. Since 2016, GAHK has been working on the formulation of the ‘Standard Methods of Testing Fei Cui for Hong Kong’ in which the definition of ‘natural fei cui’ contains all three members. The new standard, which complies with the regulations of the Trade Descriptions Ordinance in Hong Kong, provides laboratories, trade practitioners as well as consumers with a clear reference while protecting the interests of all parties.
Besides fei cui, we introduced the ‘Standard Methods for Testing Diamond for Hong Kong’ in 2008 in a bid to raise the standards of diamond testing in the city, foster the growth of the diamond industry and laboratories, while promoting diamond testing certificates.
Please cite some milestones of GAHK’s development.
1999 – Launched the course on principles and applications of advanced devices
1999 – Sent eight shortlisted members to Switzerland for a hands-on experience in the operation of advanced devices
2001 – Organised an international academics exchange conference on gemmology
2002 – Sent representatives to France for up-to-date gemstone testing technology
2003 – Sent representatives to Belgium for up-to-date gemstone testing technology
2006 – Launched ‘Standard Methods for Testing Fei Cui (Jadeite Jade) for Hong Kong’
2006 – Certified gemologist and label scheme of accredited lab
2008 – Launched ‘Standard Methods for Testing Diamond for Hong Kong’
2016 – Launched ‘Standard Methods of Testing Fei Cui for Hong Kong’
What is the task with top priority?
After the announcement of the ‘Standard Methods of Testing Fei Cui for Hong Kong’ in July 2017, local laboratories have adopted the definition of ‘natural fei cui’ for their certificates. As the new standard also includes infrared spectrum fingerprint identification, it is paramount to make sure gemmologists have a broad and thorough understanding of fei cui. Therefore, the first thing we need to do is to review the requirements for gemmologists. To this end we have been working close with the Hong Kong Accreditation Service; and hope the task can be accomplished within six months from now.
What are other major tasks lining up?
We hope to organise a major academics exchange event again. It helps enhance our gemmologists’ competitiveness and broaden their international horizon. We would also like to hold more seminars on gemmology and gemmologist training in order to consolidate the knowledge and application bases for industry players, while encouraging communication and exchange in the industry.
Currently, GAHK issues professional diamond and fei cui certificates to certified gemmologists. In view of the growing popularity of coloured gemstone jewellery, we hope to extend the professional scope of gemmologists to include coloured stones and pearls. Such plan is subject to further consideration owing to the higher academic level required in so doing.
There is a huge variety of gemstones and their trade names. We were asked to compile a glossary on gemstone terms by a trade association earlier. We believe that a set of standardised terminology can help regulate the healthy development of the industry.
Coming next is to make ‘fei cui’ an international term. The adoption of ‘fei cui’ in English complies with Pinyin (the standard system of romanised spelling for transliterating Chinese) in the Mainland. It helps promote Chinese culture to the world.
What are the pressing issues in the gemstone market nowadays?
China market provides us with unlimited business opportunities. Nevertheless, as consumers in the Mainland in general have a limited knowledge of gemstones, they irrationally demand for non-treated gemstones. Through gemmological education, we hope to let people understand the features of natural gemstones which are also rare when treated, while creating a new angle and option for them to appreciate gemstones.
In terms of the nomenclature issue mentioned above, the trade is exposed to diversified terms which cause ambiguity. For instance, the trade and consumers are confused about the different terms used for fillers, colour descriptions and the commercial names of simulants. We hope, with the concerted efforts of the whole industry, a standardised nomenclature can be introduced for the trade to follow and to use. It also allows consumers to know more about our industry, strengthens their interest and confidence in buying jewellery and gemstones.
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