Looking back to the beginning when Alexandru Bunii sketched his first design of jewellery for the Mikimoto Young Designer Awards in 2000, he would not have imagined entering the jewellery industry and becoming a concept jewellery designer later on.
With no knowledge of jewellery design, the then product design freshmen at Western University Art College in Romania submitted his entry – a pearl pendant in gold which was created with his creativity and knowledge of 3D modelling and presentation tools. Quite unexpectedly, the design was selected among all entries from 23 countries as the grand prize. “My concept was so brutal looking, contemporary and different from the traditional Mikimoto aesthetics that I am sure it had shocked all jury members,” Bunii recalled.
It was this award-winning experience that unfolded the whole world of jewellery design to Bunii. After 18 years, he owns a jewellery design studio in New York – The Sign Studio, has built solid relationships with renowned jewellery brands collaborating on special projects, showcases his designs in major jewellery exhibitions around the world, and has been recognised for his work ethic, self-motivation and eagerness to take on new challenges.
Collaborating with different brands challenges Bunii so much as each brand has its own style and aesthetics, which requires him to understand them well and adapt his design manner constantly. “During my career, I have been provoked to learn and design jewellery with various materials in styles from classical to minimalist and contemporary, in formats from traditional to statement, from large series to one-of-a-kind high jewellery pieces,” he said.
In order to present each of his clients a complete and feasible proposal, the first step he would take is to conduct an intensive research on the client and its competitors. Only in this way can he identify himself with the client’s products and emulate the designs and aesthetic values the client is recognised for, Bunii stated.
Digital technology has been thoroughly used in Bunii’s works, from Illustrator drawing, CAD visualisation and rendering to 3D modelling and rapid prototyping, as a way to make his design process more efficient. He believes that the use of digital tools offers designers a chance to combine precision, repeatability and flexibility with tactile emotions. Merging with traditional tools’ authentic, mature, well-balanced and unique values, this design process becomes “a necessary step towards achieving true freedom of expression and unmatched creativity within a controlled, predictable and forgiving environment”.
“There are many times an amazing photorealistic rendering I presented to clients determined immediate development from concept to finished product stage,” Bunii told Hong Kong Jewellery. No wonder that the egg pendants he created for Geneva-based jeweller Maison Tatiana Fabergé in 2015 were well-accepted by the brand and they even extended the initial request from six styles to seven, all being his concepts. Set with diamonds and enamel in 18-karat gold, the finished products were all manufactured in Thailand with the help of simulation tools, CAD modelling and rapid prototyping to achieve the best accuracy in following veining and decorative detailing.
Having been focusing on technology applications to make design concepts become reality, Alexandru Bunii thinks that fine design, flawless manufacturing, and the high efficiency of developing new collections are key factors for jewellers to ensure a successful and constant presence in the eyes of consumers, for today and the future.
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