Since 1967, Milan-based Pomellato has been empowering modern women with prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear) jewellery featuring sensual lines, vibrant colours, and exquisite gem-cutting and setting techniques. Hong Kong Jewellery had a chat with creative director Vincenzo Castaldo during his brief visit to Hong Kong in December 2018 over his distinctive design style and the avant-garde spirit of the Milanese brand.
Castaldo studied architecture in Florence and fashion design in Milan which opened a path for him to the fashion industry where he spent 15 years with several celebrated fashion labels. With an enviable background in fashion, a flair for aesthetics together with a keen passion for luxury accessories, it is a natural move for him to join the creative team of Pomellato in 2002 acclimatising to its groundbreaking ready-to-wear concept for fine jewellery. In 2015 he became the mastermind of the team. Nudo, Tango, Victoria, M’ama non m’ama, Ritratto or Iconica, Pomellato’s signature collections share three strong elements in common, says Castaldo. “The sensual lines of our design give a soft touch to the jewellery without reducing the geometry,” he pointed out the first important element. “Second, we transform technical elements into decorative elements,” he continued. For instance, the two prominent prongs on the Ritratto rings and the clasp of the Tango necklace are skillfully set with gemstones by master goldsmiths to elevate the aesthetic attributes of the jewellery.
Strong colour is another important recognisable signature of Pomellato’s design. Ranging from opaque cacholong, jet, red jasper, lapis lazuli, malachite, translucent moonstone to transparent amethyst, London blue topaz, smoky quartz and lemon quartz, the gemstones encompass almost every hue of the palette. Castaldo said: “We interpret colours with vibrant gemstones in different shapes and sizes with our special cuts and settings.”
Designers look to Mother Nature for creative inspirations. It is no exception for Vincenzo Castaldo. “Mother Nature can be very inspiring. In nature you can find every kind of shape. We love organic forms. We love sensual forms,” he said. “Another source of inspiration comes from art. It is very inspiring for colours. For example, the rich colours for the M’ama non m’ama collection are inspired by art. It expresses a fashionable bouquet of emotions.”
Jewellery creation is not a rigid process for Pomellato, according to Castaldo. “We are open-minded. Sometimes we start from the stone, like the Nudo collection; sometimes we start from the shape or the volume of the jewellery. The designing process is free. We test different directions for the best. We love to be unconventional,” he said.
Confidence is all it takes to be unconventional. “Our jewellery is an expression of art linking with emotions. It requires self-confidence. When you’re confident with your craftsmanship, you can find your own interpretation. Because you know the rules, you can go out of the box,” Castaldo said.
A fashion maestro, Castaldo explains the organic link between fashion and Pomellato. “The essence of fashion means a lot to Pomellato because we’re the prêt-à-porter of jewellery which is worn day and night. It becomes part of your look and your own expression. In a certain way, it is a bridge between style and soul,” he said.
“When you work in fashion, you’re always open to different silhouettes, explore different combinations and possibilities. At this point, it is similar to jewellery. After all, designers in all fields share the same mindset of being curious, open-minded and creative. Nevertheless, fine jewellery is contemporary but timeless. Collections are forever, with each one being in perfect harmony with the others. In fashion, you’ll probably go for something else for next seasons.”
According to Castaldo, Millennials prefer slimmer and smaller pieces with minimal design for stacking and multi-layering. Speaking of the needs of the new economic powerhouse, he said: “Personalisation is the focus in future, so is trustworthy stories. Younger generations are more intrigued by the story of jewellery including craftsmanship and creativity.”
As for Pomellato’s design directions in future, Castaldo said there are mainly two: one is playful and accessible with smaller design, the other is exclusive jewellery featuring master craftsmanship, value, tradition, heritage and creativity. (Photo courtesy: Pomellato)
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