Inspired by the intricate micro-mosaic jewellery Roman mosaicists made for the Paris court in the 18th century, Sicis, Italy, developed a division for micro-mosaic jewellery and watches after conducting a thorough research in the most famous museum archives for 10 years. Today, Sicis Jewels has become a world-renowned micro-mosaic jewellery maker. Gioia Placuzzi, creative director for Sicis Jewels, talked to Hong Kong Jewellery about the micro-mosaic technique, the just-launched easy-to-wear collection and the market situation during her stay in Hong Kong for a private trunk show in March 2019.
In the factory in Ravenna, northern Italy near Bologna, micro-mosaic is made of minerals, diamond dusts and glass which are melted at high temperature and then pulled to obtain a rod as tiny as a millimetre in thickness. Skillful mosaic masters cut the rods in small segments and set them one by one by hands to obtain the desired pattern. The huge colour range and the three-dimensional effect make Sicis Jewels’ micro-mosaic jewellery unique and sought-after.
“Each micro-mosaic piece is handled by one artist from start to finish in order to keep the consistent style and quality, after all, micro-mosaic setting is all done by hand,” said Placuzzi.
The Quetzal Collection is fairly self-explanatory when it comes to the unparalleled appeal of micro-mosaic jewellery from the brand. The diamond-set ring, for instance, features the head of the tropical species of which the iridescent green, yellow and red plumage is vividly laid out by the delicate arrangement of micro-mosaic. The substantial-looking piece uses titanium with 18-karat gold in order to make it comfortable for wearing, Placuzzi explained. The collection also comes with a necklace and a bracelet set with diamonds and sapphires.
The striking colour gradation effect is another key attribute of micro-mosaic. On the Bluebells Fall Collection, little triangular bells set with blue, green and white micro-mosaic resemble masterly strokes done by paintbrushes. Precious stones of matching colours such as sapphires, emeralds and diamonds complete the magnificent art piece.
In order to communicate the micro-mosaic story with a broader audience, Sicis Jewels has launched an everyday line Universe Collection. “We want people to understand more about the technique of micro-mosaic. So we launched an easy line that can be worn everyday at all price points. All elements of our high jewellery are kept in the new line, for examples, the craftsmanship, iconic motifs and the 3D effect,” said Placuzzi.
The Universe Collection features universally known symbols such as cloud, butterfly, heart, daisy, clover, star and moon. The cord in some bracelets is made of high-quality and durable marine rope. Despite the approachable nature of the new line, every piece of jewellery is made in 18-karat gold with micro-mosaic and natural gemstones including diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires. Placuzzi said: “We don’t use silver because micro-mosaic setting is in itself an expensive and time-consuming technique which commands a certain price point. Customers might not expect such kind of premium products would come with less precious metals. Therefore, it is more understandable to use natural diamonds and gemstones in gold.”
Paying close attention to details and incorporating movable and detachable designs in the Universe Collection conform to the standards of Sicis Jewels’ high jewellery lines.
In a bid to show to the public how the historic refined micro-mosaic technique is made, the jewellery house has recently developed a film in collaboration with the Victoria & Albert Museum, exploring the technique through the recreation of the micro-mosaic artwork of a table which was part of the Gilbert Collection offered by Sir Arthur Gilbert and Lady Rosalinde to the Great Britain in 1996. The art piece, done by hand by Sicis’ mosaic master in Ravenna, was gifted to the museum.
Besides operating four mono-brand boutiques in Milan, Paris, Istanbul and London, Sicis Jewels markets and distributes its jewellery through private trunk shows held around the globe every year. “Among our most important markets are the Middle East and Russia. China is also doing well. We’re looking for a trusted representative in Hong Kong who would also help deal with the clients in mainland China,” said Placuzzi.
When giving an account of the diverse preferences of different markets, Placuzzi said: “Smaller and lighter designs set with green or red gemstones are more preferred in Asia. In Russia and the Middle East, bigger and flashy pieces with blue gemstones are well-received.”
The prevailing digital trend has driven Sicis Jewels to upgrade their online presence. “We launched a new website focusing on jewellery last year. Besides, we’re selling jewellery and watches via a leading online marketplace 1stdibs for the US market. We aspire to increase the variety and quantity of our products in future. We have faith in online selling.” (Photo courtesy: Sicis Jewels)
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