Hong Kong Fei Cui Design Biennial Contest organiser Hong Kong Jewellery & Jade Manufacturers Association (HKJJA) revealed the winning fei cui jewellery pieces across six categories at DesignInspire 2019 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre on 5 December 2019. KMC Design founder Carol Kwong took home the champion of finished jewellery open group (retailed under US$10,000). A winner of the DFA Design for Asia Awards, she specialises in one-of-a-kind fei cui jewellery that delivers profound meaning, and is a jewellery consultancy specialist in Hong Kong Council for Accreditation of Academic and Vocational Qualifications (HKCAAVQ). Hong Kong Jewellery takes the opportunity to invite her to talk over her winning piece Linear Cadence pendant necklace and her thoughts on the fei cui industry.
HKJM: Hong Kong Jewellery
KMC: Carol Kwong
HKJM: What philosophical thought does the winning piece carry?
KMC: With basic visual design elements point-line-surface as initial media, Linear Cadence with extended lines and constructed interspaces attempts to bring philosophical message to light in a subtle way: Points join to form lines; lines bond to be dimensions; dimensions intertwine to weave interspaces. Meander surfaces bridge the gap between present and future, regardless the fourth dimension. Some see my works as poetry, which blend sentiment and aesthetics to sceneries, embedded with my sensitivity and thoughts on existence, take the Infinitude collection as an example, it epitomises the loops of living and resting. Apart from being an adornment, ring is not barely a ring, it serves as a reminder for the wearer to let go the held on and live like a lighthearted child.
HKJM: What makes the piece stand apart from other entries?
KMC: My piece is infused with contemporary art to reinterpret fei cui jewellery. I believe in coexistence of tradition and modernity. The robust contrast between fei cui’s time-honoured cultural significance and modern design as well as minimalistic mounting technique highlights the gracefulness of the gemstone and brings visual wonder to the judges and audience.
HKJM: Why is fei cui your favourite material to work with?
KMC: My fei cui jewellery design journey began a decade ago when I hunted for a piece of cutting-edge fei cui jewellery among the market where was filled with conventional designed jewellery and came to nothing. I designed a piece for myself; it was well-liked as if by magic and gradually developed into a business. Fei cui contains Chinese wisdom and oriental aesthetics. I have a calling to pass down traditional Chinese culture in life. Besides, the colour of this dynamic gemstone alters in the wake of wearing while no gemstone transforms likewise.
HKJM: Why is fei cui generally regarded as jewellery for older generation? How do you dispel the stereotype?
KMC: The biggest challenge faced is how to break through long-established impression of fei cui design. Designs offered in the market focus on the value of the gemstones rather than the design. Furthermore, most of them are figurative, resulted in losing popularity among younger generation. Fei cui has rich hues and textures, modern design and setting can separate fei cui from being stereotyped as the jewellery for older generation. I prefer abstract style that creates room for imagination and strives to strike a balance among quality and design to fashion an exceptional jewellery piece for customers who pursue individualism.
HKJM: Could you share with us your perspective on the fei cui jewellery market in Hong Kong?
KMC: The industry should inject creative design elements to capture the heart of younger generation. Fei cui is not barely for the well-heeled. Value is not everything. Affordable and chic collections should be launched to attract the general public to appreciate fei cui.
HKJM: What is your vision of the development of fei cui jewellery market ?
KMC: I hope fei cui jewellery will not be limited to an adornment. Shining in variations on forms and designs, fei cui will become a form of visual communication that adds a touch of individualism for its wearer, in the form of cultural expression in traditional Chinese aesthetics. At times, it can be a philosophy book and a cordial reminder of cherished memories throughout one’s life.