In the Japanese jewellery industry, timeless platinum pieces, delicate lightweight design and quality Akoya pearls are always three must-have items on consumers’ shopping lists. In the feature, Hong Kong Jewellery highlights some designs of exceptional craftsmanship, unveiling how the Japanese jewellery enterprises nowadays integrate tradition and innovation in their design.
Maki-e
Maki-e is a traditional Japanese craftsmanship that sprinkles metal powders such as gold, platinum or silver over utensils to make patterns and then finish with lacquer. Established in 2006, Japanese enterprise Hanada & Co Ltd has introduced classic yet contemporary jewellery using the traditional Maki-e technique. Its founder Keiichi Hanada expressed: “Parts of our jewellery are made up of 18-karat gold with freshwater pearls, blue ambers or corals. On the surface there are different nature-themed pictures, such as snakes, bees, or cherry blossoms (sakura), extraordinary and fascinating. Before painting, we apply a Japanese exclusive lacquer ‘Urushi’, ensuring the jewellery pieces have a smooth, shiny and glossy appearance. Our pieces also become tougher and more durable after painted. However, as the jewellery production process is complicated, the craftsmen need to spend about three months to finish a signle piece of sakura bangle.”
Hanada added: “Maki-e is usually seen in high-priced furniture; therefore fewer people use it now. The future of Maki-e is sadly uncertain. In this regard, I decided to infuse my works with this technique. People can wear Maki-e jewellery everywhere in a fashionable way. My corporate concept is to inherit the craftsmanship in Japan, while promoting the art to all over the world.”
Raden
Raden is another traditional Japanese decorative craftsmanship that applies the cut linings of mother of pearl on the lacquered or wooden surface. It is said that the craftsmanship first developed in the Heian period in architecture. In the Kamakura period, Raden was a popular saddle decoration. Today, the technique is widely used in different classic yet modern wares.
Japanese jewellery enterprise Jewelry of Raden & Uruhi is determined to break the tradition, bringing the Raden technique to the jewellery world. Its designer Keiko Ito said: “At my first sight, I was truly thrilled to see the beauty of the traditional craftsmanship. I hope to convey the beauty of Raden to as many people as possible, promoting Japanese tradition to more people in the future.” To produce an 18-karat gold butterfly brooch, the designer first applies the Japanese exclusive Urushi with her own delicate hands and skilful technique. The thin linings between 0.09mm and 0.2mm thickness are carefully inlayed. The luminosity of the seashell and Urushi can finally be brought out after polished. Ito expressed: “The reflection of light produces different hues on the jewellery surface. Shifting from blue to white and more colours, the jewellery has an enduring appeal to every wearer.”
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